Want kitchen cabinets that look like a pro painted them? The secret to those perfectly smooth, durable cabinet finishes often lies in understanding what do professionals use to paint cabinets. The pros know exactly which paints hold up, which tools give the smoothest results, and what steps can’t be skipped.
Good news: You don’t need to be a professional to get professional-looking cabinets. Whether you’re doing it yourself or just want to know what to expect from a hired job, this guide breaks down everything – no confusing terms, just straight talk about what actually works.
We’ll cover the essential paints, tools, and techniques employed by professional painters.
Learn what what do professionals use to paint cabinets and whatmakes the difference between cabinets that look okay for a while and ones that stay gorgeous for a decade. Let’s get into it.
Beyond the Brush: Understanding Professional-Grade Cabinet Paint
Not every paint is equal when it comes to cabinet painting. The professionals will not use the normal wall paints but rather use special formulations that are durable, easy to apply and that will last long even with the daily activities of a busy kitchen.
The Rise of Hybrid Alkyds: Best Cabinet Paints
Oil-based paint has long been considered the gold standard in cabinets because of the hard, durable finish and high leveling qualities. But due to their offensive smell, slow drying time and hard to clean up, they were not so attractive to most homeowners. Enter the hybrid alkyd paints, also known as water-based alkyds or urethane-modified acrylics.
These new paints have the best of both worlds, they go on like water based paints (clean up with water, low VOCs and dry faster) but cure to a hard, durable finish that is amazingly close to traditional oil based paints. They level themselves beautifully and reduce brush strokes and roller marks, which is a mark of professional work.
Top Hybrid Alkyd Brands Professionals Trust
- Sherwin-Williams Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel
- Pros love it for cabinets
- Self-leveling formula = no brush marks
- Hard enamel finish = no topcoat needed
- Dries super durable
- Benjamin Moore Advance
- Hybrid alkyd formula
- Tough as traditional enamel but easier to use
- Gives that smooth factory finish
- No extra protective coat required
- Dutch Boy Cabinet, Door & Trim Alkyd Enamel
- Another great hybrid option
- Specifically made for cabinets/trim
- Alkyd formula = durable finish
- Wipes clean easily
All three:
✓ Dry hard and durable
✓ Resist yellowing
✓ Need minimal prep
✓ Available in different sheens
The common thread? They’re all alkyd-based – that’s the magic ingredient for cabinet-worthy durability.
The Professional’s Secret Weapon: Lacquer Finishes
Many top-end professional cabinet painters, such as those at Dr. Cabinet, choose lacquer to achieve the final factory finish. Most cabinet manufacturers use lacquer which gives a very smooth, silky touch and is extremely durable.
When Professionals Choose Lacquer
Lacquer is the go-to when you need:
- That perfect “factory finish” – the kind that makes new cabinets look so crisp
- Silky-smooth surfaces – where your hand glides across without feeling a single brush mark
The Benefits and Challenges of Lacquer
The upside? Lacquer is tough as nails and dries to an incredibly smooth, hard finish. The catch?
- You can’t just brush it on – it requires spray guns and proper ventilation
- It’s best left to the pros – most painters only use it in dedicated spray booths
Bottom line: If you’re after that high-end, custom cabinet look, lacquer delivers. But unless you’ve got professional spray equipment and know-how, this is one finish worth hiring out.
When to Consider Acrylic Mineral Paints
Other professionals and experienced DIYers may work with acrylic mineral paints including General Finishes Milk Paint. These paints have good adhesion, sometimes with no primer required, and dry to a hard finish. But on areas of high usage such as the kitchen cabinets, a clear, water-based top coat is usually suggested to give them a greater ability to resist wear and stains.
Paints to Generally Avoid for Cabinets
Let’s talk about the paints that just don’t cut it for cabinets. While you might be tempted to use what’s already in your garage, some types will leave you disappointed down the line.
Traditional Oil-Based Paints
These old-school paints do offer durability, but they come with some serious downsides:
- That strong paint smell lingers for days
- You’ll be waiting forever for each coat to dry
- They tend to yellow over time, especially in kitchens
- Cleanup is a messy ordeal (good luck with those brushes)
Modern hybrid alkyds give you all the durability without these headaches – which is why most pros have moved on from traditional oils.
Standard Latex Wall Paint
Here’s the hard truth: that leftover wall paint isn’t cabinet-worthy. Regular latex:
- Peels and chips way too easily
- Never really hardens like cabinet paint should
- Shows wear fast from daily use
It might work fine for walls, but cabinets need something tougher. Save yourself the frustration and use paint actually made for the job.
The takeaway? Invest in the best cabinet paint and enjoy the durability that lasts many years.
The Secret to a Perfect Finish: Professional Priming
Primer is the unknown hero of cabinet painting, the foundation on which a long-lasting and beautiful finish is built. This is a step that a professional kitchen cabinets painter will never miss.
The importance of Primer
- Adhesion: Primer forms a good seal between the surface of the cabinet and the paint, so that the paint does not chip or peel.
- Even Absorption: This allows the topcoat paint to absorb evenly and does not create blotchiness of the paint, but rather gives a uniform look.
- Tannin Block: Some primers are required in the case of raw wood mostly porous types like oak, cherry and mahogany etc in order to lock the tannin (natural wood oils) to seep through and milk the initial coat of finish paint to make it stain the initial paint color.
- Surface Uniformity: The right primer can help cover up the slight defects, and add a level coat to give an perfect topcoat application.
- Color Tinting: Primer may be tinted to a color near the final color of your cabinets, and this can save the number of coats of paint required to cover fully.
Professional Primer Choices
- Zinsser Synthetic Shellac Primer: This is a very good primer that has great adhesion and blocks wood tannins well, thus avoiding bleed-through on raw or dark woods.
- Kilz: A good option to use when you need a textured surface on a smooth, glossy surface (such as laminate or pre-finished cabinets) to make paint adhere.
- Benjamin Moore Advance Interior Primer: This primer is often applied with Benjamin Moore Advance paint and gives a good base.
The Right Tools for the Job: What Pros Use
Getting professional results starts with using the right tools. Here’s the inside scoop on what do professionals use to paint cabinets.
The Power of Spraying: The Best Paint Sprayer
Nothing beats a sprayer for that smooth, factory-perfect look.
HVLP Sprayers: Precision and Control
- Top picks: Graco’s battery-powered spray gun or Wagner Flexio 3000
- Why pros love them: Delivers a fine mist with hardly any overspray
- Perfect for: Getting that ultra-smooth finish without brush marks
Airless Sprayers: Speed for Larger Projects
- Great for: Big jobs where speed matters
- But note: Takes real skill to control – can get messy if you’re not experienced
When Brushing and Rolling Still Shine
Sometimes you need the old-school approach.
High-Quality Brushes for Detail Work
- Go for synthetic bristle brushes (they work best with today’s water-based paints)
- Pro trick: A good brush + proper technique = nearly spray-quality results
Short Nap Rollers for Smooth Surfaces
- What works: 1/4″ mohair rollers (the gold standard)
- Skip: Foam rollers – they tend to leave bubbles in the finish
Essential Supporting Tools for Professional Results
The little things make all the difference.
Sanding Supplies: The Key to Smoothness
- Grit guide: 220 for primer, 320-600 between coats
- Handy options: Sanding sponges for curves, orbital sanders for big flat areas
Cleaning and Safety Gear
- Must-haves: Degreasers (TSP alternatives do excellent), lint-free cloths
- Safety first: A quality respirator mask is a must when spraying
- Little helper: Tack cloths to get all the dust that is left behind
The takeaway? Skill can not be substituted by great tools, but it will definitely make your job easier and the results much better. Regardless of whether you opt to spray or brush, the gear used in each process makes the world of difference between a mediocre and a professional shop end result.
The Professional Process: Steps to a Stunning Cabinet Transformation
Want your own cabinets to look like they were done by a pro? Here’s exactly how the experts do it – step by step.
Step 1: Meticulous Disassembly and Organization
First things first: take it all apart.
- Remove every door, drawer front, and piece of hardware
- Label everything clearly (trust us, you’ll forget what goes where)
- Set up a clean, dedicated painting area – mixing paint where you eat isn’t ideal
Step 2: Thorough Cleaning and Degreasing
This step separates the pros from the DIY disasters.
- Scrub away years of kitchen grease and grime
- Use a degreaser that actually works (TSP substitute is a favorite)
- Skip this, and your paint might as well be on a slip ‘n slide
Step 3: Strategic Scuff Sanding and Imperfection Repair
Now we make the surface ready for paint.
- Lightly sand everything – just enough to rough up the surface
- Fill in dings and dents with wood filler
- Smooth out any imperfections (this is where that perfect finish starts)
Step 4: Comprehensive Masking and Setup
Time to protect everything else.
- Cover countertops, floors, and appliances like you’re preparing for a paint hurricane
- Consider setting up a plastic tent if spraying – dust is the enemy
- Tape off edges cleanly (no one wants paint on their new countertops)
Step 5: Priming Perfection: Two Coats for Adhesion
Here’s where many DIYers cut corners – don’t be that person.
- Apply primer evenly – this is your paint’s best friend
- Lightly sand between coats (yes, really)
- Wipe away every speck of dust before moving on
Step 6: Flawless Color Application: Thin Coats and Inter-Coat Sanding
The magic happens here.
- Apply 2-3 thin coats instead of one thick globby mess
- If spraying: keep the gun moving at a consistent distance
- Secret weapon: light sanding with fine grit paper between coats
- Dust religiously – every particle shows in the final finish
Step 7: The Critical Curing Period: Patience is Key
This is where most people mess up.
- Drying ≠ curing – that paint stays soft for weeks
- Wait at least 30 days before going back to normal use
- Be gentle – no slamming doors or heavy cleaning during this time
Step 8: Careful Reassembly and Final Cleanup
The home stretch.
- Rehang doors and drawers carefully – all those labels pay off now
- Reinstall hardware (consider upgrading while you’re at it)
- Do a final clean-up – no one wants to find paint drips weeks later
The Pro Tip No One Tells You:
The difference between good and great? It’s not the paint – it’s never skipping steps 2 through 7. Every “shortcut” shows in the final result. Take your time, do it right, and those cabinets will look professionally done for years to come.
Avoiding Common Mistakes: What Pros Do Differently
Your DIY paint job doesn’t look as good as a pro’s and there is a reason. It’s usually not the paint; it’s the little things they do (or don’t do) that make all the difference. Here’s what do professionals use to paint cabinets, which sets them apart:
Skipping Sanding Between Coats
The significance:
- It is not just busy work to sand lightly between coats, it is what causes the next coat to adhere correctly.
- It is always a good practice, when recoating, that pros use fine-grit sandpaper (400-600 grit) on the surface. It removes dust nibs and coarse areas and leaves a buttery base.
- What will be the result of missing it? High gloss finishes reveal all flaws and paint adhesion is poor, so it will chip off in the future.
Using Cheap Brushes or Rollers
Why pros invest in good tools:
- Cheap brushes drop bristles and make streaks–as it would be to ice a cake with a dirty blade.
- Pros apply high-quality synthetic brushes (Purdy or Wooster) and mohair rollers to achieve the smoothest finish.
- What happens with bad tools? You’ll see brush marks, lint, and uneven texture—things no amount of paint can fix later.
Painting in Humid or Poorly Ventilated Areas
Why environment matters:
- High humidity causes slow drying, drips or gummy finish. Bad ventilation holds back fumes and dust.
- Pros have the work space under control: Dehumidifiers, fans or even wait for perfect weather.
- What goes wrong otherwise? Paint stays tacky for hours, dust sticks to it, and the final finish looks messy.
Rushing the Curing Process
Why patience pays off:
- Paint dries in hours but cures in weeks. Pros know that even if it feels dry, it’s still soft underneath.
- They wait at least 30 days before heavy use or cleaning—no wiping down cabinets the next day.
- What happens if you rush? Dings, fingerprints, and even peeling because the paint never fully hardened.
The Bottom Line:
Pros don’t necessarily have magic skills—they just avoid these four big mistakes. Skip the shortcuts, and your cabinets will look (and last) like they were done by a pro.
Cost Comparison: DIY vs. Hiring a Professional
Now that when you have learned in depth about what do professionals use to paint cabinets, let’s talk real numbers and results. Here’s what you’re really paying for both in professional or DIY friendly scenarios.
What Professional Cabinet Painting Really Costs
Getting that flawless professional finish from an expert typically runs $3,000–$8,000 nationwide. Why the range? Because you’re paying for their expertise in achieving that flawless semi-gloss finish or rich satin sheen.
Here’s what affects the cost:
- Cabinet boxes & bases: More cabinet bases = higher cost
- Prep work: Removing old paint, sanding down solid wood, and filling wood grain imperfections
- Paint finishes: Pros often use hybrid paints or lacquer for durability
- Spray area setup: Proper ventilation and equipment for a smooth final coat
A pro ensures even coverage, proper multiple coats, and eliminates sanding dust before each layer—something that’s tough to perfect at home.
The Hidden Costs of DIY Most People Forget
Thinking of doing it yourself? Here’s what many homeowners overlook:
✔ The right paint: Not all latex paint works for cabinets—you need durable hybrid paints
✔ How many coats? Usually 2-3 (first coat, second coat, final coat) for full coverage
✔ Prep work: Sanding, cleaning, and priming take way longer than expected
✔ Darker colors & warm undertones: Need more coats and attention in application
✔ Tools: HVLP sprayer (in case you want a professional finish) or good quality brushes (in case you want semi-gloss finish)
✔ Mistakes occur: Lumpy coats, drips or weak adhesion require doing the job over
And if you skip steps? You might end up with peeling paint or visible brush marks—forcing you to redo your entire kitchen later.
When Should You Hire a Pro?
DIY works if you’re willing to wait, but if you don’t have time, consider hiring a pro.
You need a satin finish or semi-gloss that lasts 10+ years.
Your cabinets are solid wood with deep wood grain (harder to prep)
You don’t have a spray area or the right tools
You’re using darker colors (they show imperfections more)
The learning curve seems steep (spraying isn’t as easy as it looks!)
Final Verdict
If you pay attention to details and enjoy doing projects, DIY can save money. But for guaranteed results that last a decade? That’s where pros earn their keep. Either way, now you know exactly what you’re paying for.
Final Thoughts: Getting Pro Results Starts with Pro Knowledge
You know what do professionals use to paint cabinets and what is their favorite paint and what are the steps they take to make a job look good for years.
Things you should remember:
✓ Prep is everything—no skipping steps
✓ Quality materials pay off in durability
✓ Patience matters (especially during curing!)
Your kitchen cabinets should be as appealing as they are good to use. Are you ready to make it happen? Do it yourself or hire the experts, you now have the know-how to achieve a result that you will love.
FAQs: What Homeowners Ask About Cabinet Painting
Do professionals sand between every coat of paint?
Yes, they are doing it each and every time. It is one of these little things which makes a great difference to the final appearance.
Can I achieve a professional finish without spraying?
Absolutely! The right tools will help you to get close. You can create a smooth result by using a mini foam roller and a good quality brush.
How long does painting kitchen cabinets take?
Typically 3-5 days for a full kitchen. Pros work in stages:
Day 1: Prep (cleaning, sanding, repairs)
Day 2: Priming
Days 3-4: Painting (with dry time between coats)
Day 5: Reassembly
What’s the best paint finish pros like for cabinets?
Most professionals endorse semi-gloss or satin. Gloss shows every flaw, while flat finishes stain too easily.
Can professionals paint laminate or veneer cabinets?
They can—but it takes special prep. A bonding primer is crucial to make the paint stick. The good news? Modern primers make it possible to transform even dated laminate.